Savannah, Georgia, is a gorgeous study in contrasts.
Because of its geography ( being in the South but also on the coast of the Atlantic Ocean ), it's a place where massive oak trees sporting Spanish moss share real estate with palm trees; where old-school Southern cuisine ( fried chicken, collard greens, banana pudding ) mixes with coastal culinary offerings ( conch fritters, crab cakes ); and where traditional mores mingle with progressive vibes.
It made for a very interesting trip.
Brice, Brice, baby
While visiting Savannah was The Brice Hotel, A Kimpton Boutique Hotel ( 601 E. Bay St.; BriceHotel.com ). The suite was crisp, clean and contemporary, and featured a European-style set-up in terms of having the sink outside the restroom.
The Brice ( a former Coca-Coca bottling facility ) has a wealth of amenities, including in-room spa service, a pool and an exercise room ( cardio equipment only ), among other items. Sitting in the garden courtyard itselfa beautiful settingmakes the stay at the hotel worthwhile by itself.
The hotel also contains Pacci Italian Kitchen + Bar Restaurant, which serves breakfast, lunch and dinnerand the fare is quite good, overall.
Like Kimpton hotels, The Brice is extremely LGBT-friendly. In fact, it recently held an LGBT wedding giveaway.
There is one caveat, however. This is a dog-friendly place ( complete with floors with pets as well as no-pet ones ) so if you're allergic to animals, you might have to stock up on the Zyrtec.
Food: Something for everyone
After arriving at Savannah/Hilton Head International Airport, I headed straight to Mrs. Wilkes Dining Room ( 107 W. Jones St.; MrsWilkes.com ) for what the place calls "home Southern cooking." If Mrs. Wilkes' popularity was in any doubt, the long line that greeted me put those doubts to rest. Among some of the offerings placed on tables are fried chicken, cornbread dressing, sweet-potato souffle, black-eyed peas, okra gumbo, corn muffins and biscuits. ( There's no way you're leaving here hungry. )
Also, it's interesting that, with its family-style seating, you could share a table with a complete stranger. This was exemplified when my journalism/tourism group sat with a couple from north Alabama. Just as we were about to start eating, the husband asked, "Well, who's going to say grace?" The seating makes for some interesting interactions. ( Also, The Wilkes House offers lodging. )
Another place to definitely check out is The Grey ( 109 Martin Luther King Jr Blvd.; TheGreyRestaurant ), a former Greyhound bus station. The decor is refreshingly retro, and Executive Chef Mashama Bailey knows what she's doing, serving items such as lima-bean salad, country pasta and sweet-potato pie as she mixes traditional and contemporary cuisines. Also, it doesn't hurt that telegenic ( and very friendly ) bartenders Scotty and Daniel are on the scene.
Contemporary dining is the focus at The Public Kitchen and Bar ( 1 W. Liberty St. ), a bustling place situated at a bustling street cornerwhich makes for some interesting people-watching. The saffron risotto was amazing, as were the lemon bars with olive oil and sea salt.
Also extremely delicious was the fare at Wiley's Championship BBQ ( 4700 U.S. 80; WileysChampionshipBBQ.com ). A carnivore's delight ( complete with a sign that reads, "Vegetarians welcome, but not necessarily fed" ), Wiley's has items such as redneck nachos, sliders, BBQ platesand the best banana pudding I've ever had. ( Don't tell my mother. ) And if you're lucky, co-owners Wiley and Janet will pay you a visit.
As for that aforementioned coastal cuisine, it doesn't get any better than what's offered at A-J's Dockside Restaurant ( 1315 Chatham Ave.; AJsDocksideTybee.com ), which is situated on Tybee Island, which is near Savannah. Boiled shrimp, conch fritters, crab cakes and oyster po boys are offered, and practically nothing beats sitting outside with the serenity of the water right there.
Being the tourist
Of course, if you're a tourist, you're more likely to go on tours in a city you're visiting. ( I don't know of too many Chicagoans who've actually gone of one of the many tours the Windy City has. )
Old Savannah Tours ( 250 Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd.; OldSavannahTours.com ) covers the city with trolley drivers educating riders on Historic Savannah, although more extensive offerings also cover "forgotten" neighborhoodsand people can get on or off at more than a dozen stops. An added treat on these tours is that, at some stops, historical "figures" climb on board to discuss themselves and different sites of interest. ( Among the other trivia: At least three times during my visit I heard that Spanish moss is related to the pineapplewhich I later confirmed via research. ) However, the next time I go back, I definitely plan to taking the tour of historic haunts.
However, I was even more impressed with Architectural Tours of Savannah, LLC ( architecturalsavannah.com ). Jonathan Stalcupa whip-smart gay man who obtained his master's degree in architecture from the world-renowned Savannah College of Art and Designtook a large group of us on a walking tour of parks, lots and houses in the city. ( Structures such as the Davenport and Owens-Thomas houses have to be seen and explained to be truly appreciated. Also, before this visit, I only thought "tabby" was just a type of cat; however, it's also a type of concrete that incorporates oyster shells. )
Also, I previously mentioned Tybee Island ( which was the site of the Baywatch movie being filmed, although I didn't see The Rock or Zac Efron ). Whatever you do, visit this place. As you might expect, Tybee has a beachy vibe, and has incredible cottages and homes that can be quite stately. There are also fishing piers, charters and even dolphin tours.
LGBT scene
With Savannah being substantially smaller than Chicago, it makes sense that the LGBT community there is proportionally smaller as well.
However, the scene is also undeniable. Famed drag entertainer The Lady Chablis ( known from the John Berendt book Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil ) performs regularly. Also, I was fortunate enough to meet several gay men at an arranged gathering who exemplified the relaxed, friendly vibe of the city. Several of them are members of First City Network ( FirstCityNetwork.org ), Georgia's oldest LGBT organization. By the way, the Savannah Pride Festival will be held Saturday, Oct. 22, at Forsyth Park.
Regarding nightlife, Savannah has several LGBT and LGBT-friendly bars, including Club One and Chuck's Bar.
In conclusion
There are many reasons that Savannah ( a city of 200,000 ) garners up to 13 million visitors annuallysuch as friendly people, gorgeous scenery and an inescapable historical aura, to start.
It's a city that is laid-back but can constantly surprise ( even with something as relatively minor as a parking meter with the sign "30 cents an hourmaximum: 10 hours" ). It's this refreshing mix that makes Savannah a place worth revisiting.
Many thanks go to Visit Savannah and Erica Backus for organizing this trip.