Key West is a community that has long defined itself by what it's not.
It's not like much of the United States, for example. Key West appeals to folks looking to find a life that's considerably slower and more laid-backand more tolerantthan what they've experienced elsewhere. In 1982, the community adopted the tongue-in-cheek moniker of "The Conch Republic" to proclaim its figurative secession from the mainland, which, locals often remind you, is further away from Key West than Cuba is.
Key West is certainly not like much of Florida, playing home to numerous men and women, many of them LGBT, who have eschewed the right-wing politics of their state. It was Key West residents, for example, who were at the forefront of the Sunshine State's push for gay marriage, which, as of this writing, is still being litigated.
It's not a place that takes itself too seriously either. Case in point is the cylindrical post marking the southernmost point in the United States, whose resemblance to a certain sex toy leads locals to refer to it as the "southernmost butt plug."
Like many great destinations, Key West appeals to myriad travelers, whether they're seeking sports, quiet contemplation or all-out hedonism. Consequently, you'll find about any level of accommodation, from quiet bed-and-breakfasts, to full-service luxury resorts, to establishments that are essentially bathhouses with hotel rooms.
I stayed at the Equator Resort ( 818 Fleming St., www.equatorresort.com ), an all-male property within walking distance from Duval Street. It was lively and pleasant, with guests hanging out ( pardon the pun ) all day long ( and, especially after bar-time ) in the clothing-optional pool and bar area in the center of the complex.
Along those same linesand someis Island House ( 1129 Fleming St., www.islandhousekeywest.com ), which should be a top choice if you are looking to do a lot of cruising. Besides resort amenities and a full-service bar and restaurant, Island House offers a gym, sauna and video theater. You may not be getting much sleep here. Memberships are available for folks who are not staying at the hotel.
But not everyone is looking for that kind of vacation. If proximity to the water is what you're after, Casa Marina ( 1500 Reynolds St., www.casamarinaresort.com ), conceived by railroad baron Henry Flagler and opened in 1920, is now a Waldorf Astoria property that combines the grandeur of a railroad hotel with modern luxury amenities. It features some 1,100 feet of private beach as well as a number of sports options.
Even more luxurious is Sunset Key Guest Cottages ( 245 Front St., www.westinsunsetkeycottages.com ), located on Sunset Key and accessible only by a private launch. "Cottages" might not be the word most of us would use to describe these accommodations, which range from one- to four-bedrooms. Some cottages include kitchens ( which the hotel can stock for you ), private plunge pools and laundry facilities.
Speaking of sunsets, watching the sun go down is perhaps one of Key West's most famous activities, as locals gather to do just that in Mallory Square ( 400 Wall St., www.mallorysquare.com ) at its nightly Sunset Celebration. Or you can set out on the on the Wind and Wine Sunset Sail ( 245 Westin St., www.dangercharters.com ), where you sample a multitude of wines, beers and hors d'oeuvres on the warm Caribbean waters.
For sports enthusiasts, little beats the snorkeling in Key West. I took Fury Water Adventures' ( www.furycat.com ) "Double Dip" snorkeling cruise, which stopped off at two reef locations, the second of which was on the side of a shipwreck. It's a great way to experience the waters here, though an errant underwater current blew off my wedding ring and which is now a future discovery for some undersea treasure hunter.
A more involved snorkeling expedition is to Dry Tortugas National Park ( www.nps.gov/drto/index.htm ), located some 70 miles off of Key West. Besides snorkeling the island is also home to Fort Jefferson National Monument, and offers camping facilities as well.
Among Key West's most famous residents was Ernest Hemingway and his house ( 907 Whitehead St., www.hemingwayhome.com ) which he occupied while married to his second wife, Pauline Pfeiffer, is one of its most famous tourist spots. Pfeiffer lived in the house longer than Hemingway didshe stayed there after the divorce. Now the main residents of the house are the famous six-toed cats.
Key West Butterfly and Nature Conservancy ( 1316 Duval St., www.keywestbutterfly.com ) presents about 50-60 different butterfly species, and about 20 exotic bird species, in a glass-controlled habitat. It's one of Key West's most relaxing and tranquil spots, and a great chance to be up close to, and photograph, butterflies in a tropical setting.
But if relaxation is the last thing on your mind, there are numerous places along Duval Street, Key West's main drag, to hang. Bourbon St. Pub ( 724 Duval St., www.bourbonstpub.com ) is the only video bar in town, and features dancing, a pool and go-go boys. The 801 Bourbon Bar complex ( 801 Duval St., www.801bourbon.com ) features 1 Saloon, which is the island's only leather bar. La Te Da ( 1125 Duval St., www.lateda.com ) features drag revues as well as a Sunday afternoon tea dance. There is a drag brunch at Shameless Lounge ( 610 Greene St., www.shamelesslounge.com ) as well.
A great place to get information about the island is the Gay Key West Visitor Center ( 513 Truman Ave., www.gaykeywestfl.com ). Besides information about what's going on, the Center also often features special exhibitions; one about Tennessee Williams was running during my visit.
For more Key West information, visit www.gaykeywestfl.com .