If the atmosphere at Andersonville's newest eatery, Summerdale, were as spot-on as the food, the place would be an instant hit. Unfortunately, the dining room is suffering from a bit of an identity crisis, and the result is a too-bright and too-loud space that doesn't make you want to lingerwhich is a shame because there's a nice list of both creative ( new-school ) and classic ( old-school ) cocktails, and many a satisfying meal to be had.
Summerdale is part retro diner ( chicken pot pie, oldies playing in the background ) and part upscale New American restaurant ( mezcal cocktails, sleek exterior, focus on high-quality ingredients ). The result is confusing: Do you go to Summerdale with a good book on a cold afternoon to warm up with a big bowl of chili? Or, is the place appropriate for a Saturday night date? So far, I can't tell. But, in the meantime, I'm happy to report that unlike some of its short-lived predecessors that occupied the same spaceMarket Taco, Bull Horn's Taco Bar and Marigold, which all came and went in rapid successionSummerdale serves food that will keep diners coming back for more.
There's a short but tempting list of appetizers. Look for straightforward comfort foods like fried mushrooms and spinach dip, but all made with a higher level of care than you find most diners. The Buffalo wings are finger-lickin' good. The white meat is notably juicy and slathered in a delicious sriracha-flavored sauce that has a pleasing bite to it. Blue-cheese dressing tempers the heat, as it should on any good chicken wing.
In addition to a handful of classic salads like wedge and Cobb, there's a nice selection of stick-to-your-ribs sandwiches and entrees. The crispy buttermilk chicken sandwich is a decadent treat. The expertly fried thigh meat is nestled in a pillowy bun, and spicy mayo and sliced jalapeno remind you that this isn't your ordinary chicken sandwich.
The old-fashioned chicken pot pie is well worth the 25 minutes it requires to bake. It arrives piping hot, with lots of fresh veggies and tender chunks of chicken bubbling beneath a flaky golden crust. It's memorable in that it tastes fresher ( and less coagulated by cream of chicken soup ) than many pot pies. When I visited Summerdale, one of the specials was beef stroganoffand I hope it earns itself a regular spot on the menu. It's made with a higher-quality cut of beef than you might typically find in this comfort classic. The sauce is rich and creamy without feeling too heavy, and the whole dish is brightened by the addition of a bunch of fresh chives. I only left a couple of forkfuls of stroganoff in my bowl, and even those I couldn't resist packing up to take home with me.
The food at Summerdale is tremendously satisfying, so you definitely don't need dessert, but the homemade ice-cream sandwiches are worth a taste. You can choose your own cookie and filling for a fun DIY dessert experience. At my waiter's suggestion, I sampled the cowboy cluster cookie stuffed with salted caramel ice cream. It was divine. I feared the cluster cookie would be cloyingly sweet and packed with too much candy to enjoy ( it was not ), and the salted caramel ice cream lent just the right amount of sophistication to the laid-back dessert.
Summerdale is at 5413 N. Clark St.; call 773-989-4300.