On a recent steamy summer evening, I wandered into Raj Darbar to satisfy my fiancée's late night craving for Indian food. I will admit that Indian cuisine is not my favorite. I don't dislike it, but it's rarely my first choice. That said, I was beyond pleasantly surprised by Raj Darbar, and the place did wonders for my relationship with Indian cuisine.
Raj Darbar earned a coveted Michelin "Bib Gourmand" designation this year. Bib Gourmand restaurants are chosen for offering what Michelin inspectors consider particularly good value — specifically, two courses and a glass of wine or dessert for less than $40. Raj Darbar is in good company on the 2012 Bib Gourmand list, which also includes hot spots like Bistronomic, The Purple Pig, Girl & The Goat and GT Fish & Oyster.
About three or four bites into Raj Darbar's abundant appetizer sampler platter, it was clear to me why this Indian restaurant caught discerning critics' eyes. If you're not sure which appetizer to try or you've come with a group (or a gigantic appetite), the mix platter is the way to go. It's filled with all kinds of fried Indian favorites. Tender beef and flavorful vegetables are both stuffed into rich, flaky crusts to make what I believe are some of the best samosas in Chicago. The alu tikki, seasoned potatoes and peas fried in chickpea batter, were a definite standout.
I also tried the onion bhajia, which, to my delight, was essentially a slightly spicier version of Outback Steakhouse's "bloomin' onion." (Hey: Once in a while a chain restaurant comes up with a good idea.) My favorite of the many scrumptious starters was the paneer pakora, a simple nibble of homemade cheese fried in chickpea batter. I had to specifically request the paneer pakora on my appetizer platter and forgo another offering, but the sacrifice was well worth it.
It's easy to fill up on the appetizers, but you must save room for the main event: the meats and seafood that emerge juicy and bursting with flavor from Raj Darbar's tandoor oven. The charcoal-fired clay oven cooks meat and fish to piping hot perfection. The oven reaches 900 degrees, which may explain why Raj Darbar was so hot on the night I visited — which, in fairness, was also during the height of the recent Chicago heat wave. Either way, it was like sitting under the sun at high noon in Mumbai in May (or at least what I imagine that would feel like). The uncomfortably warm temperature in the restaurant did detract a bit from my dining experience, but there were plenty of reasonably priced cold white wines on the menu to temper the heat—of both the spicy food and the steamy air.
I indulged in the Darbar special, which is described on the menu as a "Royal Feast"—and, indeed, it was. The sizzling plate, which was delivered to my table literally seconds after it was removed from the tandoor oven, was overflowing with moist chunks of spicy chicken, tender bits of lamb and one of the largest shrimp I've ever laid eyes on, prepared in Tandoori style. The generous entree (easily enough for two to share) also comes with a creamy bowl of chicken tikka masala, fluffy rice and plenty of crisp, garlicky naan to sop and scoop it all up. The whole extravaganza costs just $22.95—a bargain considering not only the sheer quantity of food it includes, but also the very evident high quality of the meats and fish. I'd say the folks at Michelin hit the nail on the head when they singled out Raj Darbar for its good value.
If you love Indian food, you'll be wild about Raj Darbar, and happy to know that they also deliver. If, like I was, you're sort of on the fence about cuisine from that region, this may be the one simply delicious Indian restaurant that changes your mind.
Raj Darbar is located at 2660 N. Halsted St.; call 773-348-1010 or visit www.rajdarbar.com . Do you need some more Sugar & Spice in your life? Follow me on Twitter @SugarAndSpiceMS for inside scoop and commentary on Chicago's dining scene.
