There's a casual new dining option in the West Loop, which usually tends to focus on more upscale restaurants. Parlor Pizza Bar opened in September, just in time for patrons to luxuriate in summer's lasts gasps on the patio. For now, you'll be enjoying the uniquely topped thin crust pizzas inside ( next to one of the blazing wood-fired ovens, if you're lucky ).
The Green St. space is massive. High ceilings with exposed duct work and beams give it a warehouse vibe. A huge bar anchors the front of the house and an equally large pizza bar sits in back. In between is an explosion of reclaimed wood tables and bistro chairs and oversized black leather booths. Two brown leather tufted sofas sit back to back in the center of the dining room, seving as stylish banquettes. They're nice looking and a good idea in theory, until you're seated at one of them and find yourself about a foot below your dining companion who's sitting in a regular chair.
When I visited—on a weeknight—Parlor Pizza Bar was bursting at the seams with jovial ( read: loud ) diners, so I can't imagine the frenetic pace at the place on a Saturday night. Music is blaring, TVs are flashing, servers wielding hot pizzas are weaving in between overcrowded tables—it's complete sensory overload. If you're looking for a place to kick off an action-packed night, you'll love it here. If you want to share a meal with someone who you actually want to speak to, order your pizza at the to-go window and take it home and eat it there because conversation is difficult inside this bustling pizza emporium.
That said, the pizza is damn good. The bubbly brown Neopolitan-style crust is Italian, but the toppings, for the most part, are decidedly American which, in this case, is not a bad thing because the kooky-sounding combinations ( cherry peppers, BBQ pork and pineapple or fried chicken with jalapeno cream sauce, for example ) are executed really well.
The "Burrata Be Kidding Me" pizza is one of the more classic pies, and Parlor's version is divine. Ample smears of creamy burrata are nestled beneath a pile of fresh, lemony arugula and the whole thing is topped off with a generous drizzle of fragrant truffle oil that you can smell even as the pizza approaches your table.
I was crazy about the "I Feel Like Bacon Love" pizza. This pie begins with rich and savory leek bechamel. Next comes a layer of potatoes sliced paper-thin, and the decadent pizza is topped off with lots of white cheddar, plenty of juicy bits of bacon and fresh scallions. It's kind of like potato skins in pizza form. It easily could have been way too much, but thanks to the high quality of the ingredients and careful attention paid to balancing the ingredient proportions, it ends up being just right ( if incredibly filling ).
Pizza is obviously the star of the show here, but if you're famished or dining with a large group, you might want to order up some apps to share. Think bar grub classics ( wings, nachos, French fries ), but all enhanced by the same kind of clever ingredient swaps you see on the pizzas. The kale and artichoke dip is quite good. I couldn't necessarily detect that I was eating kale instead of the typical spinach you'd find in this kind of dip, but bonus points for making a super food so darn delicious. For something a bit lighter ( a good idea if you want to enjoy the decadent pizzas coming your way ), opt for the Brussels sprouts with pancetta and parmasean.
If you go to Parlor for drinks ( perhaps with a side of pizza ), you will be in good company and have plenty of libations to choose from. There are more than a dozen craft brews on tap, a good-enough wine list and a few speciality cocktails.
Parlor Pizza Bar is located at 108 N. Green St.; call 312-600-6090 or visit www.parlorchicago.com .
Do you need some more sugar and spice in your life? Follow me on Twitter ( @SugarAndSpiceMS ) for news and views on Chicago's dining scene.
