I finally made my way to Ora, a small sushi spot on the south end of the Clark Street strip in Andersonville. I was a big fan of Hamamatsu, the sushi restaurant that previously occupied the space, so I was pleased to discover that Ora is every bit as good as its predecessor, and then some.
The space is quite small, so prepare for a wait during peak times. The dining room is dimly lit with dark brown furnishings. It's nothing extraordinary, but it's cozy enough for a date or dinner with friends.
While the décor may not shine, the sushi most certainly does. The rolls are inventive, full of both unique and traditional flavors, presented beautifully, and most importantly, the fish tastes remarkably fresh. Best of all, Ora is very reasonably priced. The regular rolls are a steal at $5 to $8 a pop, and the signature maki is well worth the $13 or $14 you'll spend for ample portions of sushi goodness. And, Ora is BYOB to boot, so you can spend your cash on food instead of marked-up booze. Grab some sake, crisp white wine or a cold Goose Island Sofie beer—which I recently learned pairs perfectly with sushi.
My favorite roll was the surf and turf, a delightful combination of bright golden tempura shrimp, cream cheese, asparagus and scallion that is all topped off with a thin slice of lightly seared beef. Each bite is an indulgent little meal in and of itself. I also enjoyed the dynamite roll, which is stuffed with a creamy concoction of scallop, shrimp, fish cake, cream cheese and wasabi aioli. It tastes like a baked seafood dip rolled up into sushi form, and while sushi purists will turn up their noses, the rest of you will love it.
For something a bit more straightforward, the blue shell crab is a crowd-pleasing choice. I was also impressed by Ora's version of my favorite roll, the Philly, which was made with fresh and flavorful salmon smeared with just the right amount of cream cheese.
That said, you can tell a lot about sushi when it's not hiding behind all kinds of wasabi mayo and bits of tempura, so I'm happy to report that Ora also succeeds in the nigiri and sashimi department. Not only are the single pieces reasonably priced at an average of $3 each, they are stunningly fresh. I couldn't help but order seconds of the escolar, which has a mild but rich flavor and distinct buttery texture. I also took my knowledgeable and helpful waitress's suggestion and ordered the salmon belly nigiri, which was ridiculously tender. The succulent piece of fish easily could have stood on its own, but the subtle ginger and citrus soy glaze it's brushed with only adds to its deliciousness. Many of the nigiri and sashimi offerings are dressed up with glazes and sprinkles of garlic chips or chives, which I thought could be overkill, but because the extra ingredients are added with delicate restraint, they totally work—so well, in fact, that regular sashimi might seem a bit naked after you've tried Ora's creative preparations.
The selection of non-sushi offerings is small, but worthwhile. The edamame is given an upgrade with fragrant bits of chunky garlic salt.
The seaweed salad is tart and crisp, and makes a fine pre-sushi nibble. But, the do-not-miss appetizer at Ora is the oyster motoyaki, a deliciously seasoned baked oyster. A spicy garlic sauce adds some unexpected heat to the tender oyster and Japanese egg sauce creates a crisp and golden, almost baked cheese-like, topping.
O ra is located at 5143 N. Clark St.; call 773-506-2978.
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