A corner of legendary Chicago steakhouse, Lawry's, has been sectioned off and given a slightly more casual makeover. The resulting restaurant, SideDoor, opened late last year and might best be described as "Lawry's light." Upon stepping through the discreet Rush Street entrance, you'll be greeted by the same stately dark wooden décor and heady aroma of prime cuts of beef sizzling on the grill that you'd find at Lawry's, but with fewer servers dressed in maid uniforms ( zero to be precise ) and less of the sticker shock.
SideDoor is actually more of a lounge with lots of food options than it is a restaurant. Seating is open and most tables are of the smaller cocktail variety. If you want to get a taste of Lawry's on a budget or host a power lunch without maxing out your expense account, it's a fine option.
The menu is billed as small plates meant for sharing, and food comes out as it is prepared by the small team working in a handsome open kitchen. However, I found most of the dishes neither particularly small nor shareable. In keeping with its casual persona, SideDoor's drink menu is beer heavy, with lots of tasty craft brews.
The bites and the soups & salads sections of the menu both feature a mix of steakhouse classics like seafood salad and baked potato soup, along with a few lighter options like avocado mash with pita chips and a mesclun salad with pine nuts. The Lawry's Wedge makes for a starter or light lunch that won't disappoint. Instead of a single wedge of iceberg lettuce, this version is made with a trio of miniature wedges. With crisp lettuce, plenty of thick chunks of bacon and lots of creamy blue cheese, this traditional salad tastes exactly like it should. I appreciated that it wasn't served overly cold like many wedge salads.
There is a smattering of entrees like pappardelle with braised lamb and fish and chips, but most diners will probably gravitate toward the hearty sandwich section of the menu. For a fun DIY sandwich experience, you can order meat by the quarter pound. You choose from among prime rib, sirloin, lamb, turkey breast or pork spare rib, and the meat is served family style. Meat boards come with mustard, horseradish and assorted breads, and you can add on gourmet toppings like caramelized onions and bacon jam.
I opted to have my sandwich prepared for me, and went with the classic Lawry's prime rib. It's a tender and thick cut of prime rib and, not surprisingly, is cooked to utter perfection. The meat is served on a crusty baguette that is buttered and grilled. I was most excited to douse my meat in the whipped-cream horseradish that accompanies the sandwich. Unfortunately, the sauce is more cream than horseradish. When I spread it onto the hot bread, it melted instantly, leaving behind none of the tangy bite that makes horseradish so delicious. I'd expect better execution from an institution like Lawry's.
For a non-meat, although every bit as decadent, option, try the crab po' boy. Tiny crab cakes are fried a perfect golden brown and arranged on a toasted baguette. Tangy remoulade and thinly sliced pickles complement the flavor of the sweet crab.
Sandwiches aren't served with sides, but you can order them a la carte. You won't go wrong with the baked mac n' cheese ( although you may leave SideDoor a bit more stuffed than you intended ). While this wasn't the best mac n' cheese I've ever eaten, it was good enough to keep me coming back for a few extra bites after I'd already had my fill. It's made with a creamy mix of cheese that imparts a delicious smoky flavor, and is made even more indulgent with tender chunks of bacon throughout. Toasted breadcrumbs on top are upgraded with a bit of fresh rosemary. I only wish the mac n' cheese was cooked a bit longer, as the cheese sauce was a little thinner than it should be. And, as a personal preference, I could do without the diced tomatoes, which add a little sweetness I'd rather not taste in mac n' cheese.
Dessert is a tough sell at SideDoor because what comes before it is so darn filling. If you do want to end with something sweet, I highly recommend the smoked plum creme brulee. The brulee itself is silky and delicately sweet. The plum sauce adds a tart contrast to each rich, creamy bite of creme brulee. I came to SideDoor for the prime rib and found myself pleasantly delighted by the expertly made dessert.
SideDoor is located at 100 E. Ontario St. ( enter on Rush Street or through Lawry's main entrance ); call 312-787-6768 or visit www.sidedoorchicago.com .
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