This week, Savor had the pleasure of experiencing two Italian restaurants that differ in several ways, including ambiance and location. However, they also have similarities—not the least of which is great dishes.
312 Chicago ( 136 N. LaSalle St.; www.312chicago.com ) is in the heart of the Loop, adjacent to the Hotel Allegro—immediately painting it as a place where everyone from families to top-level executives dine and discuss. This place can handle all of them, thanks to seating ( on two levels ) that doesn't allow for a bad view in the place.
Additional photo spread at the link: www.windycitymediagroup.com/gay/lesbian/news/photospreadthumbs.php .
As for the food, telegenic chef Luca Corazzina certainly knows what he's doing—and he should, being born in Italian and being the son of a chef. ( He also worked at the famed Chicago restaurant Vivo. )
The meal my guest and I had was amazing from beginning to end. Appetizers included the capesante ( seared scallops ) and buffala ( grilled buffalo mozzarella wrapped in prosciutto ). In fact, I thought the latter would be the high note of the lunch—until the orecchiette tartufate came along. Made with Italian sausage, mushroom, black truffle paste and Fontina cream, I would return for this dish alone. However, the pecan tart ( with pumpkin gelato ) managed to do something I didn't think possible: get me to like pecans.
By the way, what's in a name? I thought it came from the zip code, but it's actually from the eatery's opening date ( 3/12/1998 ). March 12 also happens to be Corazzina's birthday.
A few miles away lies Wicker Park restaurant Azzurra ( 1467 N. Milwaukee Ave.; azzurrachicago.com ), which has a more rustic and whimsical feel ( check out the Victrola light fixtures )—but which also has food that can compete with any restaurant in the city.
Patrons will feel like they're in Italy as soon as they see the menu, which includes a mix of northern and southern Italian dishes. Appetizers range from roasted root vegetable salad to crostini. ( The crispy Brussels sprout leaves with pecorino were light and delicious, and the pancetta-wrapped, gorgonzola-filled dates were a high point. )
Entrees were similarly impressive, including a new item: a twist on shrimp and grits that incorporates the crustaceans with polenta and Italian sausage—it's a total hit. Another must-try is the Tuscan pici with pork shoulder ragu and parmigiano. The savory pork saltimbocca is one of the items listed under the "piatti unici" ( "unique dishes" ) portion of the menu; stuffed rainbow trout and bison flank steak are among the other items in that section.
Wrap up your time here with a lemon panna cotta, which has a sweetness that doesn't overwhelm, and the chocolate espresso tart.
One note: The music, at least on the night I went, was not quite what I expected. While I enjoy '60s and '70s soul ballads, it was initially jarring to hear it—although I can see how the songs were an attempt to add a romantic vibe to the place.
