In Chicago, it can be tough for a steakhouse to carve out (pun intended) its own identity.
However, Smith & Wollensky ( www.smithandwollensky.com; 318 N. State St.) has managed to do so—primarily through its top-notch service, excellent cuisine and the venue itself.
As for the cuisine itself, Executive Chef Mark Chmielewski has created a menu that, in many ways, is perfect for summer. Being from the Chesapeake Bay area I'm a bit of a crab-cake snob; however, the crab cake (with cognac mustard and ginger sauces) at Smith is very good and filled with meat (as opposed to breading). There's also the BBQ wild (also known as "angry") shrimp that made me nothing but happy.
However, Chmielewski offers so much more. Just some of the starters include salmon three ways (gravlax, pastrami and ceviche), seared scallops and tuna crudo on Himalayan salt block, to name a few. Salads include one with spinach, peppered bacon and poached egg as well as a Cobb and the Wollensky (romaine, teardrop tomatoes, potato croutons, bacon lardons and mushrooms with house vinaigrette). When temperatures become as high as they've been lately, these may be the perfect dishes for you.
But, of course, the essence of a steakhouse is its meats—and Smith & Wollensky's items are definitely top-tier. I dined on a filet rubbed with Gevalia coffee and cocoa that was topped with ancho chili butter and crispy angry onions. I was initially skeptical but the contrasting flavors worked perfectly. Patrons can also choose a filet mignon that Cajun-seasoned or crusted with Gorgonzola. However, there are also classic cuts such as dry-aged sirloin, bone-in ribeye and marinated Cajin ribeye; free-range chicken; and even Atlantic swordfish steak au poivre (pan-seared line-caught, pepper-crusted swordfish).
If you manage to make it through these very filling items, stay for dessert. (In fact, desserts and wines are housed in a menu folder entitled "Excuses to Linger.") Among the indulgent sweets are warm apple tart, pecan pie, New York-style cheesecake, coconut layer cake and something called Wollensky's six-shooter (a collection of sorbets and ice creams).
As for libations, Smith & Wollensky impressed me with its wide selection. Yes, there are many wines (including the restaurant's own private reserve), but people can try cognac, bourbon and even grappa. (Those who may need to wake up from their food comas may also want to try one of a variety of coffees.)
Then, there's the very restaurant itself. It has an airy look and feel (with the wind actually whipping through the place when I was there), can comfortable seat hundreds and has an unparalleled view of the Chicago River. This is just another way that Smith & Wollensky successfully has made its own identity.
