Windy City Media Group Frontpage News
Celebrating 30 Years of Gay Lesbian Bisexual and Trans News
home search facebook twitter join
Gay News Sponsor Windy City Times 2018-03-21
About WCMG Publications News Index  Entertainment Features Bars & Clubs Calendar Videos Advertisers OUT! Guide    Marriage



SAVOR Marchesa; LH on 21
DISH: Weekly Dining Guide
by Andrew Davis, Windy City Times.

facebook twitter pin it google +1 reddit email

Some things ( including restaurants ) have to be experienced to be believed.

When I first read about Marchesa ( 535 N. Wells St.; ), it seemed too good to be true. Reports purported that the spot practically whisked patrons away to Europe—a bold claim other restaurants have made ( some successfully, others not so much ).

However, regarding Marchesa, one should believe those reports. The eatery features upscale Italian, Spanish and French dishes, and Executive Chef Mark Sabbe definitely knows what he's doing—and partners Jason Clark and Kathryn Sullivan Alvera ( who worked together at Prosecco, which is just down the street ) have struck gold ( or oro ) with this one.

Even the cheese and chatcuterie are above the norm, with selections including cheese such as La Peral Blue and meats like jamon serrano and chorizo cantimpalo ( and served with rosemary, peach and black pepper jams ). Appetizers are inviting, to say the least; shrimp Jovan is pretty simple—shrimp, garlic, black pepper and butter sauce, with grilled sourdough bread—but taste much better than similar dishes I've tried. And a grand medallion of foie gras was just that ( grand ), although a little of the delicacy goes a long way. ( In addition, Marchesa has a caviar menu—and there's even a caviar parfait, with roe, salmon, chopped egg and whipped creme fraiche. )

Sabbe's mastery continues onto the entrees, thanks to dishes such as orecchiette pomodoro e rapini, delicately served in tomato sauce; and steamed PEI mussels that are enticing enough to even get this non-fan to give them a try. However, the crowning achievement is the Iberico pork, served with beet puree, marinated baby beet escabeche and Iberico bacon. It's nothing less than stunning.

And as if all that isn't enough, there's the impressive decor as well as the chef's table ( in a semi-private room away from the main area ), an apartment above that will house chefs-in-residence and a space below ( aptly called "The Cave" ) that can be rented. ( See if the hostess can provide a tour. )

By the way, Marchesa starts lunch on Monday, March 19. Please check out this spot. ( This may be a good time as well, as evening going on a Tuesday evening can have one witnessing bustling activity. Imagine how the weekends are. )

LH on 21

LH on 21 ( 85 E. Upper Wacker Dr.; ), located in the luxury hotel LondonHouse, oozes sophistication.

Low lights, fireplaces, sleek furniture and impeccable service make for a place that one could easily spend hours talking, soaking up the atmosphere—and eating, of course. ( You don't need to wear a suit here, but I'd leave the dingy jeans and Daisy Dukes home as well. )

Certainly, part of the reason for wanting to linger comes from Chef Jacob Verstegen, who provides dishes that are not only delicious—but they're so artfully presented you almost don't want to touch them.

The bison tartare almost looks like something from the Museum of Contemporary Art, accompanied by aerated egg, smoked tomato, toasted cassava and brioche. And the Honeycrisp apple and red beet salad looks nothing like a traditional dish—and tastes divine thanks to walnut, pecorino vinaigrette and red watercress.

The second round seems to up the ante even more, if that's possible. Dishes include sweet potato baked in ash and carrot roasted like meat—the most instructional dish names I've ever seen on a menu.

The third round ( entrees ) has items like butter-poached flounder and Arctic char ( a wonderful item with braised kale, bacon, pumpernickel crumbs and caper leaf custard ). Even the relatively plain-sounding roasted chicken is a step above what you might expect. And please make room for dessert—the choclate cake is amazing.

However, if you're not in the mood for a sit-down dinner, LH on 21 ( which has an outdoor space called—what else?—LH on 22 ) has bar snacks. Those are, no doubt, on an elevated level as well.

facebook twitter pin it google +1 reddit email

Windy City Media Group does not approve or necessarily agree with the views posted below.
Please do not post letters to the editor here. Please also be civil in your dialogue.
If you need to be mean, just know that the longer you stay on this page, the more you help us.


Gay News

DINING NAHA moving, Lunchroom opens, 'March Madness' 2018-03-20 - —NAHA, 500 N. Clark St., is moving after 18 years, serving its last meals there on Saturday, March 31. In a letter, Carrie ...

Gay News

SAVOR Veggie Grill Baptiste & Bottle brunch 2018-03-20 - Fast-casual chain Veggie Grill ( various locations; ) may become the new Starbucks. While a friend and I recently went to the ...

Gay News

Dining Out For Life Returns to Chicago on April 26 2018-03-14 - Founded in 1991, Dining Out For Life is an annual, international event that raises vital funds for HIV/AIDS service organizations. Participating restaurants donate ...

Gay News

DINING 'Impossible' burger, 'Top Chef' winner, St. Patrick's Day items 2018-03-13 - —Wrigley BBQ, 3555 N. Broadway—known for smoked platters of pulled pork and brisket—is offering the Impossible burger. Accompanying other vegetarian dishes, this burger ...

Gay News

DINING Puerto Rico benefit, Pi Day, women's luncheon 2018-03-07 - —Chicagoland chefs will come together Wed., March 14, to support the restaurants, hospitality and tourism in Puerto Rico that were all impacted by ...

Gay News

SAVOR Esquire Champagne Room; Honey Butter Fried Chicken 2018-03-05 - Accessible luxury may be closer than you think. At least, that's the stated goal of Esquire Champagne Room ( 58 E. Oak ...

Gay News

DINING Lent specials, Terry's Toffee moving, Tied House 2018-02-27 - —Every Friday during Lent ( through March 30 ), Frontier, 1072 N. Milwaukee Ave., will offer Chef Jup's seafood menu. There will be ...

Gay News

The Bakery at Fat Rice; Honey Butter Fried Chicken 2018-02-27 - Many know ( or, at least, know of ) the Logan Square restaurant Fat Rice, with its globally inspired menu. Well, since ...

Gay News

SAVOR Truluck's; Andersonville Restaurant Week 2018-02-26 - Truluck's Seafood, Steak and Crab House ( 41 E. Chestnut St.; ) is one of the most recent restaurants in a city ...

Gay News

SAVOR ETA Restaurant + Bar; Cafe Robey 2018-02-21 - In a recent staycation review, I mentioned how hotel restaurants have skyrocketed in recent years in terms of the quality of the food ...


Copyright © 2018 Windy City Media Group. All rights reserved.
Reprint by permission only. PDFs for back issues are downloadable from
our online archives. Single copies of back issues in print form are
available for $4 per issue, older than one month for $6 if available,
by check to the mailing address listed below.

Return postage must accompany all manuscripts, drawings, and
photographs submitted if they are to be returned, and no
responsibility may be assumed for unsolicited materials.
All rights to letters, art and photos sent to Nightspots
(Chicago GLBT Nightlife News) and Windy City Times (a Chicago
Gay and Lesbian News and Feature Publication) will be treated
as unconditionally assigned for publication purposes and as such,
subject to editing and comment. The opinions expressed by the
columnists, cartoonists, letter writers, and commentators are
their own and do not necessarily reflect the position of Nightspots
(Chicago GLBT Nightlife News) and Windy City Times (a Chicago Gay,
Lesbian, Bisexual and Transegender News and Feature Publication).

The appearance of a name, image or photo of a person or group in
Nightspots (Chicago GLBT Nightlife News) and Windy City Times
(a Chicago Gay, Lesbian, Bisexual and Transgender News and Feature
Publication) does not indicate the sexual orientation of such
individuals or groups. While we encourage readers to support the
advertisers who make this newspaper possible, Nightspots (Chicago
GLBT Nightlife News) and Windy City Times (a Chicago Gay, Lesbian
News and Feature Publication) cannot accept responsibility for
any advertising claims or promotions.








About WCMG Publications News Index  Entertainment Features Bars & Clubs Calendar Videos Advertisers OUT! Guide    Marriage

About WCMG      Contact Us      Online Front  Page      Windy City  Times      Nightspots      OUT! Guide     
Identity      BLACKlines      En La Vida      Archives      Subscriptions      Distribution      Windy City Queercast     
Queercast Archives      Advertising  Rates      Deadlines      Advanced Search     
Press  Releases      Event Photos      Join WCMG  Email List      Email Blast     
Upcoming Events      Todays Events      Ongoing Events      Post an Event      Bar Guide      Community Groups      In Memoriam      Outguide Categories      Outguide Advertisers      Search Outguide      Travel      Dining Out      Blogs      Spotlight  Video     
Classifieds      Real Estate      Place a  Classified     

Windy City Media Group produces Windy City Queercast, & publishes Windy City Times,
The Weekly Voice of the Gay, Lesbian, Bisexual and Trans Community,
Nightspots, Out! Resource Guide, and Identity.
5315 N. Clark St. #192, Chicago, IL 60640-2113 • PH (773) 871-7610 • FAX (773) 871-7609.