Things may initially prove to be a tad deceptive at Bernie's Lunch & Supper ( 660 N. Orleans St.; bernieslunchandsupper.com/ ).
For one, the meal I had was bruncha concept that belies the restaurant's name, and may confuse people who walk by the establishment on a weekend day. For another, Bernie's advertises itself as bringing "a new take on Mediterranean cuisine to Chicago's River North neighborhood." However, stopping in there this past weekend, it was apparent that this new brunch concept ( so new that it wasn't on the website as of Oct. 4 ) has more of an all-American approach.
Neither finding is badjust unexpected.
Another surprise comes in the form of the servers, who wear what resemble gas-station attendants shirts with names on thembut NOT the servers' actual names. ( Got that? ) So our server was Jeff, although the name on his shirt was "Clancy." Also, the rustic contemporary decor and even the music ( '60s and '70s soul ) may throw off patrons expecting something with an Italian or Middle Eastern vibe, but nonetheless convey an open and welcoming feel.
However, the culinary fare at Bernie's ( which telegenic chefs Ryan Sand and Zack Sklar co-own ) is pretty impressive.
The brunch menu is divided into small plates, sandwiches, salads, wood-oven offerings, sides and large plates. Forgoing the sweets ( partially because the blueberry muffin was not available ), my dining companion and I had a large and more-than-satisfying salad of lettuces with radishes, herb salad, green goddess dressing and bread crumbs. ( The cocktails, which include beermosas and Blood Marys, are pretty solid. )
However, for me, the high point was the fines herb omelette, with fontina cheese and crispy potatoesit was a dish that was extremely tasty and creamy. This one, as they say, was worth the price of admission.
My friend loved the roasted oysters, served with chorizo butter and potatoeven if he accidentally mistook the bed of salt for rice. Lastly, the patatas bravas, with garlic aioli and marinara sauce provided a tasty conclusion. ( On second thought, it was good that we bypassed the muffin. )
Regarding the cuisine, Sand told Windy City Times that there are such items as cheeseburgers and steaks because every good Chicago restaurant has to have such items. On another day, I'll have to try those offerings ( as well as the lamb hashwi, which has gotten universal raves ).
Next time, I'll have a better handle on what to expect.