I'll be the first to admit it: I underestimated Ohio—again.
Two years ago, I visited Columbus—not knowing what to expect—and was stunned by several aspects, including just how LGBT-friendly the city was. (I still remember the stat that LGBTs make up 10 percent of the city's population and control 20 percent of the economy.)
However, this trip was a bit different, starting with the fact that I was going from a hip urban area to a place dotted with cottages, caves—and no Internet service.
This trip completely pushed me outside my comfort zone—and I'd do it all over again in an instant.
Home on the range
My first two days (on a trip with a few other journalists) involved a stay at the Inn & Spa at Cedar Falls ( innatcedarfalls.com ) in Logan, Ohio—about a 45-minute drive from Columbus. Surrounded on three sides by Hocking Hills State Parks, the inn features a setting that, as its website says, "puts guests in tune with the harmony of nature, the peace of solitude and the simple joys of the Earth's beauty."
In other words, if you truly want to get away from the hustle and bustle of city life, this is the place.
The people at the inn—which offers a choice of guestrooms, cottages and cabins—could not have been nicer. And if there are individuals more receptive than innkeepers (and married couple) Ellen Grinsfelder and Terry Lingo, I don't know them.
Each journalist was assigned his own cottage (charmingly named after flowers); mine was "Hepatica." The place was totally charming, with a gas log stove, private deck, refrigerator and whirlpool hot tub. Then I realized something: There was no television—or telephone, for that matter. In addition, there was no cellphone service (towers would take away from the atmosphere), except in the restaurant down the dirt path and across the paved road.
It was safe to say that this city slicker was outside his comfort zone—especially at night, when it was completely dark and quiet. This is someone who is used to ambulance sirens lulling him to sleep.
We later had dinner at the inn's restaurant, and the contemporary American cuisine was quite impressive. The flounder I had was quite tasty, but I had a feeling the other dishes (including roasted filet mignon, salmon and coq au vin) would've been just as satisfying. By the way, I had a drink just earlier called an Island Breeze—and I daresay it's better than just about any cocktail I've had in Chicago.
Zipping along
The next day started with seeing deer and going on a rather refreshing hike, followed by breakfast at the inn. The meal was even better than I expected, complete with yogurt and unbelievable homemade granola.
Then, it was time to visit the inn's spa. The spa is a converted cabin, which definitely reminded me of the theme of getting away. Services range from pawpaw facials (and I heard about this fruit more than once while I was in Logan) to Thai yoga massage to reflexology. I opted for the warm bamboo massage, which involves warm oils and bamboo tools. Basically, it's a deep-tissue massage that kneads you like dough—and it felt fantastic.
After stumbling back to the restaurant (I was really relaxed), I joined two others in a cooking class—my next potentially discomfiting experience. The journalists were divided into two groups, with us making sticky toffee pudding (although they were more what I described as "cakelets"). I envisioned batter going everywhere, thanks to yours truly. However, I only had to butter the ramekins so it was all good. Also thankfully, the product turned out to be quite delicious.
However, nothing prepared me for what happened next: the Hocking Hills Canopy Tours ( www.hockinghillscanopytours.com )—a three-hour ziplining adventure. I was a bit hesitant at first: After all, combine the fact that I have a fear of heights (or a fear of falling from heights, as I tell people) with the fact that people go from treetop to treetop at about 30 miles per hour, and revisiting the spa was starting to look mighty good.
But I forged ahead. Led by Abby and Jake (who really were the most helpful instructors you could hope for), I not only was ziplining—but I was doing it comfortably, even running off a dirt cliff and zipping along at one point. I didn't expect the rope bridges and rappelling down the last tree, but those parts of the tour actually enhanced my experience—and my sense of accomplishment. In addition, each of us received a certificate of completion.
(By the way, there's also the SuperZip, where you're flying through the air like Superman and the staff controls your stopping.)
In the evening, we had a dinner featuring unique pairings and cocktails provided by Watershed Distillery ( WatershedDistillery.com ), which, incidentally, has expanded into the Chicago market. Co-founders Dave Rigo and Greg Lehman—both affable and easy on the eyes—explained everything from the origin of the distillery's name to the various products (which include vodka, bourbon and gin).
Afterward, I walked back to my cottage—on the dirt road in complete darkness. Never mind that I heard a twig snap in the woods as I walked—the nighttime sky was intoxicating. I'm not sure I had seen so many stars in my life. Content with what I accomplished during the day and getting used to my surroundings, I fell asleep with no problem.
Hello, Columbus
This day was tinged with sadness as I realized I was leaving the Inn & Spa. However, it began with breakfast and a hike of Ash Cave (the largest recess cave in the state) in Hocking Hills State Park. Once again, I was struck by how friendly everyone was, with complete strangers saying "hello" as they passed by us.
Then it was on to Columbus, but not before we took in one more local sight: the Paul A. Johnson Pencil Sharpener Museum ( www.1800hocking.com/whattodo/pencil_sharpener_museum ). Housed in a small, charming building, there are more than 3,400 items in categories ranging from Disney to transportation.
As much as I enjoyed the Inn & Spa, it was great being back in Columbus, and our first stop was the dessert boutique Pistacia Vera ( www.pistaciavera.com ). It was very crowded, and also easy to understand why: Siblings Spencer Budros and Anne Fletcher have crafted an attractive eatery featuring croissants, macarons (not to be confused with macaroons), tortes and other treats.
However, we had to eat light because we then visited Harvest Pizzeria/Curio at Harvest ( www.harvestpizzeria.com ) for lunch. Small-plate items include warm ricotta profiteroles with lavender honey and balsamic reduction (heavenly) while there's an impressive list of pizzas, including one topped with fennel sausage, Canal Juction Gouda, smoked provolone, onion and fennel pollen.
We then went near the intersection of Gay and High streets (seriously) to visit two very different establishments: zerOz ( www.zeroz.com ) and Sugardaddy's ( www.sugardaddys.com ). The former specializes in super-thin (and stylish) sleeve wallets while the latter (owned by couple Tom Finney and Mark Ballard) will literally have you bursting at the seams with sweets such as brownies and blondes.
Checking into the Hilton Columbus Downtown ( www3.hilton.com/en/hotels/ohio/hilton-columbus-downtown-CMHDWHH/index.html ), as one might expect, provided a different experience from the Inn & Spa—although I was still missing that secluded spot. However, that doesn't mean this hotel doesn't have a lot to offer—including a fitness center, indoor pool, sizeable business area and the Gallerie Bar and Bistro.
This hotel also provides another advantage: it's steps away from Columbus' Short North area, with dozens of shops, restaurants and other businesses such as Middle West Spirits ( www.middlewestspirits.com ), central Ohio's first microdistillery, run by engaged couple Brady Konya and Ryan Lang. Also, be sure to check out Brothers Drake Meadery ( www.brothersdrake.com ) to sample some mead (delicious fermented honey).
The Pearl ( www.ThePearlColumbus.com ) was a definite high point. The place was bustling—and with the food, it was easy to see why. Start with the devils on horseback (bacon-wrapped dates and "aged" molten cheese) and the hand-cranked sausage sampler. The entrees are equally enticing, with offerings such as ricotta dumpling, Southern fried chicken and the pub burger, which is one of the best burgers I've ever tasted.
Lastly, there was the force of nature known as Nina West ( superdragqueen.com ), who has a personality and show that's second to none. Celebrating her decision to stay in Columbus, West performed to a packed house at Axis Nightclub that saw everything from a drag king doing Justin Timberlake's "Suit & Tie" to West and a fellow performer in a skit involving a cow and what I hope was chocolate.
That last bit sort of capped me being out of my comfort zone—but this trip proved, if nothing else, that sometimes it's good (and ultimately comforting) to go beyond one's boundaries.
Special thanks go to Experience Columbus ( experiencecolumbus.com/lgbt&; for arranging this excursion.
Many more photos by Andrew Davis and from Experience Columbus here: www.windycitymediagroup.com/gay/lesbian/news/photospreadthumbs.php .
