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  WINDY CITY TIMES

Lesbian's eateries honor Frida Kahlo
by Ross Forman
2010-02-17

This article shared 4764 times since Wed Feb 17, 2010
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Marlene Benitez was at a fork in her life, so she decided to, um, use it.

It was late 2006 when she learned her job at Glenbrook South was being eliminated at the end of the school year. She also then was going through a divorce and her kids were nearing their last days in high school.

"I thought I was at a cliff, and I was going to jump. But I was going to jump to happiness, not to hiding myself anymore," Benitez said. Less than a month later, Benitez opened her first restaurant, the Andersonville spot La Cocina de Frida, 5403 N. Clark, and shortly thereafter she came out of the closet.

"I was done pretending to be a straight [ woman ] ," she said. "Shortly after [ the restaurant ] opened I was at Star Gaze and someone asked [ about my sexual orientation. ] It was easy to say I was gay, and I was proud to say it." She also then told her family, fearing the worst. But ultimately there were no issues. "They are still very proud of me," she said. "I want to be a good role-model for younger Latino lesbians, especially those who are afraid to come out, afraid to achieve their dreams, or just afraid tell their families," that they are gay.

Benitez, 44, of Glenview, has two daughters ( Kris, 19; Alex, 18 ) and two highly successful restaurants: the Andersonville location and Frida's, 3755 N. Southport.

"My love for food and cooking came from cooking with my grandmother in Mexico, learning all of the traditional ways of cooking where you purchase that day what you are going to cook and eat that day," said Benitez, whose restaurants always offer made-from-scratch, traditional Mexican food.

Her grandmother, Aldegunda Garcia, is no doubt smiling down from heaven, knowing Benitez is successful and happy.

So who's Frida?

That's Frida Kahlo, a Mexican painter who used vibrant colors in a style influenced by indigenous cultures of Mexico and European influences.

Many of her works are self-portraits that articulate her own pain, and Kahlo was bi-sexual.

"I've always had a fondness for that strong woman, someone who is very proud of her culture.

My grandmother was very fond of her culture, very proud of our traditions and our family values. As was Frida Kahlo," Benitez said. "I used to always admire the fact that Frida was bi-sexual and was so open about it."

Benitez, at 21, moved from California to Mexico to open a gym in the town of Huitzuco. That is where she met her then-future husband, and she also then collected relics associated with Kahlo, who she was introduced to by her grandmother.

Many of those relics are now on display at the Andersonville location.

"I came from a strict Mexican upbringing, so I didn't know [ what ] the reaction would be if I came out. So I instead led the married life, with a nine-to-five job," Benitez said. "But then everything came to a halt and I just decided, 'No more; I have to be myself.'"

Opening a restaurant, Benitez said she had, "nothing to lose." But added the venture was, at first, "very, very scary."

Today she's a success.

More about Marlene Benitez: —Was married for 10 years

—Has volunteered for Howard Brown Health Center, for the International Film Festival, and more —Is now dating local business consultant Shirley Riz, who also is her business partner at the Southport location, as well as her "best friend in the whole wide world," Benitez said.

—Is an admitted workaholic

—Buys food locally, mostly from an Edgewater market.

—The clientele at the Andersonville location includes a large percent of gay customers, along with visitors from Pilsen and the suburbs, particularly Evanston.

—The clientele at the Southport location is mostly young families.

—The number-one food item is the bomba Frida, a one-plate wonder filled with heapings of pork, cubed ham, chorizo, peppers, pineapple, cheese and more.

—The signature drink is La Cazuela, served in a clay bowl, with fresh, hand-squeezed grapefruit, orange, lemon and lime juices, along with two shots of tequila, with a dash of brandy and more. "It's just divine and we sell them like crazy, especially during the summer," she said.

—The quote: "Both [ locations ] are doing extremely well. I am living my dream come true. I wake up daily with a smile on my face."

—Is planning to open a Mexican steak house in 2011

—Offers fire-roasted salsas; their meat products are never frozen.

—She was originally going to name her first restaurant La Cocina de Mi Abuela ( The Kitchen of My Grandmother ) .


This article shared 4764 times since Wed Feb 17, 2010
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