Often when people are done with their workdays in the Loop, they speed home, making that area a virtual ghost town. However, South Water Kitchen (225 N. Wabash Ave.; southwaterkitchen.com ), overall, makes a compelling case for staying in that area just a little longeror for out-of-town visitors to swing by and say hello.
First, the space is deceptivein a good way. Upon walking in, you're greeted by a bar (and, hopefully, a bartender as friendly as the one my friend and I had). There is an accompanying tavern menu that's pretty impressive; items include a charcuterie plate, pulled-pork sliders, deviled eggs, candied bacon popcorn and an absolutely scrumptious strawberry flatbread (strawberries, duck confit, ricotta cheese and balsamic glaze), among others. The cocktailsa Moscow Mule and a Swedish Seedgarnered mixed reviews, although the bartender was quick to accommodate my friend, who was a bit dissatisfied with her first drink.
The more informal area (dotted with a couple large TV screens) has several tables in addition to the bar. Then, curiously, there's a more formal area (for a large group, one presumes) beyond the casual spaceand then down the stairs is another, larger formal lot. Somehow, it seems to workalthough I could see a raucous crowd in the casual area making things a tad uncomfortable for those in the upper formal space.
Our server was very attentivebut she also made my friend a little nervous. (This is the first time that's happened upon profiling/reviewing a restaurant.) She was extremely nice, but was a bit careless handling things (dropping a tray of silverware; almost dropping glassware) and even tripped over my friend's chair. I'm assuming (hoping?) she was just starting, and that this one night was an aberration.
However, this space definitely has a saving graceand his name is Chef Roger Waysok. Waysok, an extremely affable fellow, discussed everything from cooking for his family to who he thinks is the greatest guitarist of all time (Jimi Hendrix, although Eric Clapton is a close second). (One of Waysok's off-work passions is playing the guitar, and his wife and older child play instruments as well.)
And Waysok is as talented as he is gregarious. In addition to the aforementioned flatbread (which warrants a return trip alone), he prepared seared scallops (with green pea and bacon hash along with a carrot-ginger puree) and papardelle pasta (with braised lamb, spring vegetables, ricotta cheese and fresh mint). I'm not blowing smoke here, but the pasta dish is one of the best items I've had so far this year at any restaurantand certainly is the best lamb-themed dish I've tried, ever.
When asked what the hallmark of his dishes is, Waysok said "simplicity." Sometimes simplicity is goodespecially if it's accomplished as well as he does it.
Additional gallery of photos by Andrew Davis and from Kimpton Hotels by David Phelps here: www.windycitymediagroup.com/gay/lesbian/news/photospreadthumbs.php .