We're only a couple weeks into 2015—and it's possible that I've already had the best culinary experience I'll have all year.
Moreover, it happened at a restaurant that's closing this weekend ( Jan. 17, to be specific ).
Lake View restaurant Senza ( 2873 N. Broadway; www.senzachicago.com/ ) has a Michelin star for at least two very good reasons: Noah and Cara Sandoval. The husband-and-wife duo ( he's the executive chef, she's the front manager ) makes sure that patrons' every whim are catered to—but more on that later.
Just one of the amazing things about this place is that it's pricey but has the most comfortable ( and casual ) vibe. ( The extremely knowledgeable servers are very friendly, which helps enormously. )
The food—from the presentation to the taste—almost defied description during my visit. ( Note: I was a guest of David Shannon, the chef de cuisine at L'Opossum in Richmond, Virginia; he and Noah are longtime friends. ) There is a single gluten-free menu that has nine to 12 courses ( although allergies are certainly taken into account ). I won't describe each course, but just some of the highlights included Rappahannock oyster, a tribute to Shannon's ( and my ) home state that featured Virginia ham mignonette, finger lime and borage flower; cured Loch Duart salmon that incorporated grilled lettuce, pumpkin seed and kumquat; and Hudson Valley foie gras with sunchoke gnudi, white alba truffle, bay scallop and caramelized whey.
There wasn't a single letdown during an experience that lasted four hours. Grapefruit and black truffle didn't necessarily sound that appetizing—but the combination turned out to be stunning. Dessert courses ( which were similarly amazing ) included cashew granola with banana and miso butterscotch; and the palate-cleansing Meyer lemon and fernet sorbet.
Also, the wine pairings I had ( for most courses ) excelled on all levels. Shannon completely went the non-alcoholic route, and I decided to taste a huckleberry-and-ginger concoction he had. Naturally, it was amazing.
Now about the aforementioned whims: At the end of the meal, our server asked if we wanted any more food or drink. I jokingly said that I'd like a Yoohoo and Ben & Jerry's ice cream. Not five minutes later, the server ( who knew I was joking, by the way ) returned with a pint of the ice cream and two cans of the chocolate drink. ( It helped that a Wal-Mart was just down the street. )
So, if possible, hustle on over to Senza. Good luck getting a table during this last week, but it's worth it. It's a singular experience.
Bar Toma
Don't ask me to compare Senza to Italian restaurant Bar Toma ( 110 E. Pearson St.; www.bartomachicago.com/ ). It's comparing apples and oranges to me—and, as an eatery that's known for its pizzas, Bar Toma does quite well in its area.
Executive Chef Erik Freeberg has been at this spot since it opened more than three years ago, when the restaurant replaced the esteemed Bistro 110. He has clearly developed a talent for what appeals to patrons.
We started with Nonna's family-style meatballs, which are quite sizeable. The tomato sauce and pecorino Romano enhanced the meat instead of covering the taste—a mistake some restaurants have committed.
Charred carrots were served with goat cheese, toasted almonds and balsamic—and turned out to be a winning combination. The kale salad was solid, grouped with cage-free egg, garlic bread crumbs and anchovy vinaigrette.
As for the pizzas, they're quite good. The White Zombie pizza features fior di latte mozzarella, Grana Padano cheese, smoked garlic and olive oil. Avec eventually was a little more to my liking, though—it's a savory combination of Pinn-Oak lamb sausage, pancetta, dates, goat cheese and spicy tomato sauce. I'd definitely return for this.
By the way, there are definitely desserts here. ( When I looked at the online menus, none were present. ) Options include tiramisu, Italian doughnuts ( although they were out the night we were there ), cannoli, chocolate cake, affogato and gelato. The cake and cannoli are certainly above-average, as well as the gelato ( which I've had previously ).
So, after shopping at nearby Water Tower Place or Topshop, hop on over to Bar Toma. Your stomach will thank you.
