The latest restaurant from Brendan Sodikoff ( the chef and restaurateur behind Bavette's Bar & Boeuf, Au Cheval and Maude's Liquor Bar, to name a few ) opened in late April. Sodikoff transformed Dillman's, his short-lived upscale deli, into Cocello, a sexy lounge serving thoughtful Northern Italian cuisine.
The River North space is dark and inviting. Seating is a mix of handsome red leather booths, charming wooden bistro sets and several pairs of oversized tufted lounge chairs with low tables. The mismatched furniture creates a charming and cozy atmosphere that makes you want to lingerand indulge in a few cocktails or carafes of wine.
Cocello's menu combines fresh ingredients in all kinds of inventive dishes, with Italian influences woven throughout. The spring vegetable salad is a perfect starter for this time of year. Crisp fava beans and peas are tossed with fluffy whipped ricotta. The bright flavors of the veggies pair nicely with the light and creamy cheese.
Carb lovers will delight in the ample pasta section of the menu. All of the pasta selections are handmade and thoughtfully dressed with lovely combinations of savory sauces, vegetables, seafood and meat. The pasta alle amatriciana is reminiscent of spaghetti and marinara, but far more complex and elegant. The tangy red sauce is made with guanciale, roasted tomato and pecorino, the combination of which creates a rich and smoky flavor. I also enjoyed the risotto, which was cooked to a nice creamy texture. Gorgonzola and bacon conspire to make the risotto a decadent treat that's perfect for sharing. The pastas were delightful, but they were a tad too salty, an unfortunate theme that continued throughout the mealand the only thing that made the food at Cocello good instead of great.
The dishes at Cocello aren't necessarily full portions, but they're not small plates either. If you order a traditional Italian lineup of starters followed by a pasta and either a fish or meat course, you might find yourself in need of a doggie bag. The pesce e carne ( fish and meat ) section of the menu features a nice selection of simple Italian preparations of beef, chicken and seafood. The herb-stuffed pork belly is one of the most interesting offerings. The tender pork is formed into a spiral shape with lots of fragrant herbs packed in between the layers of meat. I found the pork belly a bit on the fatty side ( even for pork belly ), but the flavor was superb and overall the dish was enjoyable.
You'll want to add some side dishes to your meat or fish course. My favorite was the potato fonduta, an excellent complement for the pork. The silky mashed potatoes are made fantastically rich with truffle oil. There are also some lighter options like roasted broccoli and peas with toasted garlic. The braised kale and pancetta sounded tempting, but the flavor was overly sweet with an odd aftertaste.
But, my meal ended on a beautiful note with the fresh homemade doughnut holes. They arrive to the table hot and dusted with sugar. I couldn't even wait for my dining companion to return from the bathroom before popping one into my mouth. The doughnuts come with a fruit dipping sauce and a dollop of whipped creama deconstructed DIY version of a jelly doughnut.
Cocello is located at 354 W. Hubbard St.; call 312-888-9195 or visit www.cocello.com .
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