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Brunch at Sable, Takito
DISH: SAVOR
by Andrew Davis, Windy City Times
2014-05-19

This article shared 3846 times since Mon May 19, 2014
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Most of my past profiles have focused on lunch and dinner at restaurants. However, this restaurant will tackle brunch at two establishments.

The first spot I'm profiling this week is Sable ( 505 N. State St.; www.sablechicago.com ), which is linked to the Hotel Palomar.

Sable manages to feel very contemporary/trendy ( the place screams "sleek" ) while also being cozy. As opposed to evenings, when the restaurant features a stylish crowd that loves to see as well as being seen, Saturday/Sunday brunch has a much more casual feel.

The menu is similarly cozy, featuring a variety of shareable items ( with smaller portions providing two servings, larger ones presenting four ). My friend and I decided to try two items for sharing, and then each opted for a larger dish.

The soft scrambled eggs ( with mushrooms, kale, roasted garlic and goat cheese ) received high marks from both of us, the collage of flavors working amazingly well and the eggs being cooked just right. Truffle burgers were also quite tasty.

Bacon brioche French toast ( served with sauteed apples and maple butter ) also worked well. The last dish, the chicken and waffles, was the one I looked forward to the most—but it didn't quite past muster. While I actually enjoyed the taste of the chicken and waffles separately, the bourbon maple syrup lent a bitterness I wasn't expecting—and if you're coming off a hangover, you may not want to deal with bourbon the first thing in the morning. I would try this again, but with the maple butter instead.

Overall, though, I would definitely recommend Sable.

I had previously visited Takito Kitchen ( 2013 W. Division St.; http://http://www.takitokitchen.com ) about a year ago—and it was where I had found one of my favorite drinks ever: the caliente margarita, which contains chipotle.

Takito now features brunch on Fridays through Sundays ( at 11 a.m.-3 p.m. ) in addition to its lunch menu. This, of course, warranted a return visit.

Admittedly, the actual brunch items are few in number—five, to be exact. However, what is shown is done quite well.

As with Sable, it was the egg dish that earned applause. The Spanish ham and eggs feature serrano ham, Brunkow cheddar eggs, papas bravas and cilantro. Chef David Dworshak and sous chef Carlos Nunez acquitted themselves admirably here.

The pork-belly sope was also quite good; however, there are also a vegetable and Yucatan-style chicken sopes. In addition, some of the dinner items ( such as the bass tiradito ) can be served at lunch; be sure to ask your server. ( Props go to server Erika, who was beyond helpful. )

By the way, I cringed when I heard the phrase "ghost pepper," which is usually pretty darn hot. However, at Takito, the pepper is served with hibiscus in the restaurant's salsa, etc.—so it's cooled down substantially. ( For those who truly want something hot, they can request a pipette of habanero hot sauce. ) Don't skimp on dessert: The Mexican chocolate ganache and arroz con dulce de leche ( rice pudding ) are both standouts.

Also, get yourself a caliente margarita. It's the weekend—you deserve it.

Note: Bar Takito will open in the West Loop later this year. Dworshak said that spot will have a larger kitchen, and that the dishes there will incorporate even more global flavors.


This article shared 3846 times since Mon May 19, 2014
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